Step into the magical world of the Venice Carnival with our comprehensive guide, designed to unlock the deeper mysteries of this extraordinary celebration. Immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of art, history, and cultural significance that defines this iconic event. From the symbolic intricacies of masks and costumes to the timeless tales of Commedia dell'Arte, this guide illuminates the layers of tradition and splendor awaiting visitors. Perfect for those eager to absorb the essence of Venice's most captivating spectacle, our guide ensures a truly enriching Carnival experience.
As the winter chill begins to thaw and the calendar pages turn to February, Venice awakens to a spectacle like no other. The Venice Carnival, an extravaganza of history, culture, and art, paints the city in vibrant hues of tradition and modernity. But what exactly is the essence of this centuries-old festival?
The Essence of Carnival
The Venice Carnival, or 'Carnevale', finds its roots in the Latin 'Carne Levare' - 'to eliminate meat', marking the beginning of Lent with a grand farewell to meat and earthly pleasures. This period of festive indulgence, culminating in Shrove Tuesday, prepares for the subsequent austerity of Lent. The Carnival isn't just a feast for the senses; it's an act of 'incarnare' - embodying another's spirit, as people don masks and costumes, stepping into a world where reality blends with fantasy.
A Journey Through Time
Tracing back to Roman Saturnalia and Greek Dionysian cults, the Carnival's history is as rich as it is diverse. Its first mention in Venice dates back to 1094, under the Doge Vitale Falier. Officially recognized in 1296 as a public holiday, the Carnival was a conduit for the expression of joy and dissent, blurring social divisions under the anonymity of masks. The 18th century saw its zenith, with the Carnival becoming the heartbeat of Europe's most serene Republic, hosting legendary figures like Casanova and Carlo Goldoni, an influential Italian playwright and librettist from Venice, known for revitalizing Italian commedia dell'arte. His notable works include "The Servant of Two Masters."
However, the French and Austrian occupations of 1797 brought a dark age upon the Carnival, ceasing its festivities until its revival in 1979. Today, it stands as a testimony to Venice's resilience, celebrating life with a gusto that echoes through its canals and alleyways.
The Captivating World of Commedia dell'Arte at Venice Carnival
The Venice Carnival, a spectacle of history and tradition, becomes even more enchanting with its vibrant embodiment of Commedia dell'Arte, a form of theatre that has been an integral part of Italian culture since the 16th century. This theatrical tradition, characterized by its improvised dialogue and a roster of timeless characters, is vividly brought to life during the Carnival, with each character donning distinctive costumes and masks that tell their own unique stories.
Harlequin (Arlecchino)
One of the most beloved and recognizable characters is Harlequin, known in Italian as 'Arlecchino'. A mischievous yet endearing servant,
Harlequin is renowned for his colorful, patchwork costume, embodying his playful and chaotic nature. The traditional Arlecchino outfit features a tight-fitting jacket and trousers, both adorned with multicolored diamond-shaped patches. His mask, typically black, is characterized by a low forehead, rounded cheeks, and a slightly upturned nose, often accompanied by a slapstick, symbolizing his role as a comic trickster.
Pantalone
Pantalone, another central figure, represents the archetype of the greedy merchant or elderly Venetian patriarch. His costume reflects his status and age, often comprising a red coat, tight red pants, and a black cloak.
The Pantalone mask emphasizes his high-status yet miserly character, with a hooked nose, sharp chin, and bushy eyebrows, often accompanied by a pointed, graying beard.
Columbine (Colombina)
Columbine, known as 'Colombina' in Italian, is a clever and resourceful maid, often depicted as Harlequin's love interest. Her costume is usually less elaborate, mirroring her status as a servant, but is nevertheless charming and often includes a modest dress with an apron, sometimes adorned with ruffles or lace.
Unlike many other Commedia characters, Colombina's mask only covers her eyes, maintaining her expressive facial features, and is often beautifully decorated with sequins, feathers, and jewels.
The Doctor (Il Dottore)
Il Dottore, the Doctor, is another staple character, often portrayed as a wealthy, pompous, and somewhat foolish academic from Bologna.
His costume typically features a black robe or a long coat, resembling traditional academic dress, and a ruffled collar. The Doctor's mask is unique, with a bulbous nose and a look of perpetual astonishment, reflecting his over-the-top personality.
The Captain (Il Capitano)
Il Capitano, or the Captain, is a braggart soldier, full of tall tales about his military exploits. His costume is flamboyant and exaggerated, with a large hat, a sword (often comically oversized), and a cloak.
The Captain's mask often has a long, hooked nose and a fierce expression, embodying his boastful yet cowardly nature.
Brighella
Brighella, often a companion of Harlequin, is a cunning, opportunistic character. His costume is similar to Arlecchino's but in green and white, and less flamboyant. Brighella's mask, like his personality, is more subdued, with a half-mask often sporting a sly, cunning smile.
As the Venice Carnival unfolds, these characters roam the streets and canals, engaging with spectators and each other, bringing to life the comedic and satirical essence of Commedia dell'Arte. Their presence is a reminder of the enduring legacy of Italian theatrical tradition, adding an extra layer of depth and drama to the already vibrant Carnival atmosphere.
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Culinary Delights of the Carnival
As the Venice Carnival unfolds, its streets transform into a culinary wonderland, reflecting the city’s rich history and diverse influences. At every turn, aromas of traditional Venetian treats mingle with exotic spices, inviting locals and visitors alike to indulge in a gastronomic journey.
The 'fritelle', often hailed as the queen of Carnival sweets, is a testament to Venice's culinary heritage. This delectable fried pastry, with its golden-brown crust giving way to a soft, airy interior, is a harmonious blend of simplicity and richness. Studded with plump raisins and fragrant pine nuts, each fritella is a delicate balance of textures and flavors, finished with a generous sprinkling of fine sugar that glistens like a dusting of snow.
But the culinary repertoire of the Carnival extends far beyond the beloved fritelle. 'Galani', also known as 'chiacchiere', are another staple, offering a delightful crunch with every bite. These thin, ribbon-like pastries are deep-fried to a perfect crisp and coated with a veil of powdered sugar. Their light, flaky texture and sweet, buttery taste make them an irresistible treat, capturing the essence of festive joy.
'Castagnole', small dough balls fried until they achieve a delicate golden hue, then rolled in sugar, are a delight in their own right. Soft and tender, they burst with flavors that evoke the warmth of home and the excitement of the Carnival.
In recent years, Venice's culinary artisans have been reimagining these traditional confections, infusing them with contemporary twists that delight the modern palate. The 'fritella veneziana' now comes in an array of innovative variations, such as velvety cream fillings or tangy apple mousse, offering a modern interpretation of this classic dessert.
Beyond these sweet treats, the Carnival is also a time when Venice's savory culinary offerings shine. Streets and markets brim with local and international delicacies, reflecting the city's historical role as a bustling trading hub. From freshly caught seafood prepared in time-honored Venetian style to exotic spices and ingredients that hint at faraway lands, the Carnival's food scene is a celebration of Venice's rich culinary history and its ongoing evolution.
The Art of Mask-Making
In Venice, masks are more than mere disguises; they are symbols of freedom and equality.
The tradition of mask-making, or 'mascherari', is a revered art, employing materials ranging from papier-mâché to leather and glass. The 'Bauta', with its full-face coverage, and the 'Moretta', an elegant oval mask for women, are among the most iconic. Then there's the 'Plague Doctor', a haunting reminder of Venice's resilience through past pandemics, its long beak a bizarre yet fascinating feature.
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Mesmerizing Events of the Carnival
Festa Veneziana Sull'Acqua - Venetian Water Festival
The 'Festa Veneziana Sull'Acqua' - the Venetian Water Festival marks the grand opening of the Venice Carnival, transforming the Rio de Cannaregio into a mesmerizing floating stage. Spectators gather along the banks, watching in awe as the waterway lights up with elaborately decorated boats, vibrant performances, and enchanting music. This event sets the tone for the Carnival, showcasing the city's deep connection with water and its historical significance as a maritime power. The floating parade, featuring performers in traditional Venetian attire, reflects the elegance and mystique of the city, making it a truly unforgettable experience.
This festival takes place in 'Rio de Canario', which was historically the main shipping canal in Venice and transforms this canal into a fantastic water stage, putting on a spectacular show of extravagant floating structures and acrobats.
Located at the edge of 'Canareggio', the most populated district in the city, this event is performed twice on the same day, once at 7 pm, and then again at 9 pm.
Corteo Festa Delle Marie - Parade and Feast of the Mary's
The 'Corteo Festa Delle Marie' is a historical reenactment that brings to life a tale of beauty and heroism from Venice's past. Festa Delle Marie', Parade and Feast of the Mary's, this traditional procession starts at 'San Piero de Castello' at around 2:30 pm and continues along 'Via Garibaldi' and 'Riva degli Schiavoni' before arriving at a stage at 'St. Mark's Square' at around 4 pm, where the official presentation of Carnaval takes place. This historic reenactment celebrates the Doge's custom of giving gifts such as clothes and jewelry every year to 12 beautiful girls of humble origins so they could have a dowry when they got married. In 973, during one of these celebrations, Venice was attacked by pirates, and the brides were kidnapped along with their jewelry. Miraculously, they were saved, and since then, the city of Venice has made votive offerings to the Virgin Mary by officially establishing the Feast of the Mary's. Later on, carved wooden statues called 'Marione' replaced the actual girls, and the festival lost much of its original meaning. In the following years, the celebration slowly fell into disuse and was suppressed in 1379. It wasn't until 1999 that the modern celebrations of the 'Feste delle Marie' were re-established
as a symbolic event.
This procession starts at San Pietro di Castello and winds its way through the city to St. Mark's Square. Participants, dressed in magnificent medieval costumes, recreate scenes from this dramatic story, culminating in a celebration of the brides' safe return. This event not only offers a glimpse into Venice's rich history but also pays homage to its heritage of resilience and community spirit.
Volo d'Angelo - Flight of the Angel
The 'Volo d'Angelo' or the Flight of the Angel is a breathtaking event held in St. Mark's Square, where an artist descends from the bell tower, gliding over the awestruck crowd on a zip wire. This tradition, which dates back to the 16th century, symbolizes the trust and hope of the city. The performer, often in a resplendent costume, embodies an angel's grace and beauty, delivering a message of peace and goodwill to the gathered spectators.
Like many other traditions, the 'Volo d'Angelo' was re-established after a long period of absence. During a carnival in the mid-16th century, a young Turkish acrobat managed to reach the belfry of St. Mark's bell tower by walking on a very long rope, aided only by a barbell. He began his ascent on a rope that was tied to a boat anchored at the nearby pier. The event, which was immediately called 'Svolo del Turko', Fly of the Turk, aroused so much interest that the Venetians asked for it to be repeated in the following editions of carnival. In 1759, the performance ended in tragedy, where the acrobat plummeted to the ground amidst the horrified crowd, due to the seriousness of this accident, the act of ascension by rope was banned. From then on, a large wooden dove, in a time called 'Colomba', was used in place of the acrobat. The dove released flowers and confetti onto the crowd as it flew from the bell tower. The 'Volo del Angelo', Flight of the Angel, then became the 'Volo della Colombina', Flight of the Dove. The original event has only very recently been revived. The first modern edition dates back to 2001. At first, the role of the angel was entrusted to famous people in the field of sport or show business, but since 2011, the task has been assigned to the winner of the previous year's 'Maria' competition.
This spectacular display is a highlight of the Carnival, drawing visitors from around the world.
Volo dell'Aquila - Flight of the Eagle
Similar in spirit to the 'Volo d'Angelo', the 'Volo dell'Aquila' or the Flight of the Eagle is a newer addition to the Carnival festivities. This event sees a prominent figure, often a celebrity or an athlete, soaring majestically above St. Mark's Square. 'Il Volo dell'Aquila' is one of the most recent traditions of the Carnival of Venice. The flight of the eagle was established in 2012, in addition to the popular flight of the angel. During this event, a similar aerobatic flight is performed by a prominent sports figure who soars above the festive crowds gathered in the square.
The 'Volo dell'Aquila' not only provides a visual spectacle but also signifies the city's ongoing cultural and artistic evolution. The figure of the eagle represents strength, freedom, and the soaring spirit of Venice, captivating the audience with a powerful performance that blends tradition with modernity.
Concorso La Maschera Più Bella - The most Beautiful Mask Contest
The 'Concorso La Maschera Più Bella' is the most beautiful mask contest, a celebration of creativity and craftsmanship and takes place in St. Mark's Square. Participants from all over the world showcase their handmade masks, each a unique work of art. This contest is judged by a panel of international costume and fashion designers. During the whole carnival period, every day the jury votes for the most beautiful mask, and the winners will go directly to the final.
Judges evaluate the masks based on originality, craftsmanship, and beauty. There's also a children's edition, 'Concor La Maschera Piu Bella Edizione Bambini', encouraging the younger generation to participate and keep the tradition alive. This contest is not just a competition but a vibrant display of the artistic talent that the Carnival inspires, keeping the ancient art of mask-making alive in modern times.
The Awards Ceremony of the Carnival Mary, again this takes place in St. Mark's Square. On the last day of carnival celebrations, there is an awards ceremony that crowns the winning 'Maria'. This event takes place after a water parade that starts at 'San Giacomo del Orio' and ends at the square's edge. The winning 'Maria' will then return the following year to play the role of the 'Angelo' in the 'Flight of the Angel' ceremony.
Svolo de Leon - Flight of the Lion
The 'Svolo de Leon', Flight of the Lion, this takes place in St. Mark's Square to bid Carnival farewell, marking the culmination of the Carnival, is a ceremony filled with symbolism and grandeur. In this closing event, a large flag featuring St. Mark's lion is raised on the bell tower of St. Mark's Basilica with St. Mark's winged lion is symbolically hoisted to the top of the 'Campanile', the bell tower, accompanied by effects and music. This event pays homage to the city, its history, and traditions through its most representative symbol, the 'Lyone', the lion of St. Mark. This marks the official closing of the past two weeks of celebrations and excitement, with the promise to return the following year.
This act represents the enduring spirit and pride of Venice, paying homage to its patron saint and its rich historical and cultural legacy. As the flag soars, it symbolizes the end of the Carnival's festivities and the promise of its return the following year, leaving an indelible impression on the hearts of all who witness it.
The Venice Carnival is not just a festival; it's a living, breathing canvas of history, culture, and art. It invites us to don masks, not to hide but to reveal a world where history dances with the present, and every alley whispers tales of yore. In the heart of Venice, under the shadow of masks and the sweetness of 'fritelle', the Carnival continues to weave its timeless magic, year after year.
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